VANTAG galeria: 02/23/16

Tuesday, February 23, 2016

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Ritts

No one epitomized 80s and 90s cool quite like Herb Ritts. Sleek, stylish and totally transportive his images successfully bridged the gap between art and commerce, bringing an abstract approach to photographing celebrity culture.

Helena Christensen, Malibu, 1996

Making the most of the L.A. landscape – he often shunned the studio, capturing his intimate portraiture and sculptural nudes against the bright and beautiful Californian sunlight to create bold contrasts.

Naomi Campbell, 1990

He shot the supermodels as they became a phenomenon – most famously in his 1989 nude image of Stephanie Seymour, Cindy Crawford, Christy Turlington, Tatjana Patitz, and Naomi Campbell— which became an emblem of the 1990s era of the supermodel. His campaigns for Calvin Klein, Chanel, Armani and Versace were remarkable for their clean lines and elegance.

Versace Veiled Dress,1990

“The way Herb Ritts photographed you was the way you wanted the world to see you." Cindy Crawford

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Introducing the visual language of fashion photography to the music video – Ritts brought his talents to directing some of the most memorable videos of the 1990s – from Janet Jackson’s ‘Love Will Never Do’, to Madonna’s ‘Cherish’ and Chris Isaak’s ‘Wicked Game’. His indelible influence can be clearly seen today in the visuals for Lana Del Rey’s ‘West Coast’ and Beyonce’s ‘Drunk in Love’.

Male Nude with Tumbleweed,1986

Sadly passing away in 2002 at age 50, he left behind a body of work which included 40 covers for Vanity Fair alone, 50 television commercials, 13 music videos and hundreds of magazine spreads. Take a look at our selection of Herb Ritt’s most seminal images – and immerse yourself in his effortless mastery of minimalism, beauty and form.

Female torso with veil, 1984

Pierre and Yuri, 1999

Madonna on the set of Cherish

Stephanie, Cindy, Christy, Tatjana, Naomi, Hollywood, 1989,

Versace dress back view, El Mirage, 1990

Rankin teamed up with Walter Campbell and a host of directors to create X

Avedon

Richard Avedon elevated fashion photography to a form of contemporary art. In his work for Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue, he redefined the role of the model and photographer – using outdoor locations and natural light, and bringing expression, laughter and movement to the previously nonchalant world of the fashion image.

Charlize Theron, The New Yorker, 2004

Moving into the journalism and art world in the 1960s, he captured the faces of the civil rights movement, Vietnam war protestors, activists, politicians and artists. His landmark 1979 portrait series The Western Project saw him journey across the American West to capture intimate and raw portraits of working class life.
As the first ever staff photographer at The New Yorker, he aimed to “photograph people of accomplishment, not celebrity, and help define the difference once again”.

Jean Shrimpton in a Mondrian dress by YSL, Harper's Bazaar, 1965

By asking probing questions, he provoked subjects to expose themselves emotionally in his images, a unique kind of therapy for him – “My portraits are more about me than they are about the people I photograph.”
Explore some of our favourite images from Avedon’s 50 year career at the defining edge of American style and culture.

Donyale Luna, Harper’s Bazaar, April 1965

Dior, 1955

Civil rights demonstration, Atlanta, Georgia, c. 1963

Portrait from the The American West series, 1979

Nadja Auermann, New Yorker, 1995

From head to toe purple sequins at Ashish to JW Anderson’s odd future and Marques’Almeida duvet-day aesthetic, these are out favourite moments from London Fashion Week.

Ashish’s 80 glam rock glitter suit

The sequin drenched pieces at Asish brought Studio 54 style glamour to the runway. This purple suit was definitely a winner, it has that glitter glam rock reel while possessing a bit more of a collectible edge than some of the mini dresses. Who wouldn’t wanna be dressed head to toe in purple sequins?

Faustine Steinmetz’s intricate hand woven mohair pieces

This russet ensemble is made with sustainable cotton and mohair and has a spellbindingly textural quality. The overall look is a little un-wearable but that skirt would look killer with a denim jacket. You can look good and feel good in Faustine’s garms, knowing that she takes sustainability very seriously.

Christopher Kane’s stylish bag ladies

Christopher Kane made car boot sale look cool for AW16. This dress is cut to precision and decked in dusty curtain florals, creating an enchanting charity shop meets high fashion hybrid. Who would have thought that plastic bags worn as hats would ever make it on to the runway. Forget what you thought you knew and head to your nearest Tesco.

Burberry’s lacquered puffer

We’ve witnessed a major puffer resurgence since the menswear shows and this Burberry glossy number is making serious waves. Holding on to some of its nineties roots with it’s high shine exterior but offset by a huge shearling collar and stitching details, Burberry are bringing the puffer up to date.

Peter Pilotto’s mosaic dress

Seemingly drawing inspiration from the organic forms of Matisse’s paper cuts, Peter Pilotto’s mosaic dress is a riot of colour and print, kept under control by a diamond criss-cross design. The mosaic print gave the dress a circus vibe while the necktie and free-flowing silhouette kept it grounded in seventies bohemia.

Gareth Pugh’s Party in the USA

Female power and dominance formed the inspiration behind Gareth Pugh’s AW16 collection. This star studded and sharp-shouldered suit would make Grace Jones proud. Royal blue and covered in military style stars, topped with a matching hat; this look is WonderWoman in all her glam rock glory.

J.W. Anderson’s Odd future

For AW16, Anderson brings us a collection as bizarre yet endearing as ever. This look is infused with sci-fi futurism reminiscent of Pierre Cardin and Paco Rabanne’s designs from the sixties. Although you may find the black shiny cape a little hard to wrap your head around right now (let alone actually wrapping it around your neck) we can guarantee that soon you’ll be seeing all the fashion pack wearing them. The shoes will be everywhere without a doubt.

Alexander McQueen – Fly like a butterfly

This look is equal parts lingerie and formal dress. Waves of chiffon cascade downwards from a black lace bodice like wings from the flurry of butterflies that inspired Sarah Burton’s dark yet romantic collection. Weaving mysticism and fantasy with just a thread of darkness- so McQueen.

Marques Almeida – Floating on a candyfloss cloud

Surfing the puffy outerwear resurgence, Marques Almeida brings us a look grounded in their love of the nineties. Frayed denim and tie-dye in deep shades of indigo are juxtaposed with a larger than life cotton puffer in candy pink. The prospect of a walking duvet-day is definitely one we can get on-board with.

Simone Rocha’s Supernatural silk

Simone Rocha, queen of dark romance, brings us a collection fit for roaming the great halls and shadowy corridors of gothic castles. Which is something we do regularly, of course. This high necked, floor length dress has elements of Victoriana but is still sexy because it envelops the body like smoke. Add black boots and black fur for extra vamp.

Photography | From Paris to Tokyo, Leo Berne’s cinematic portraits

In every Leo Berne image there is promise of an untold story. As a photographer, his ability to frame a moment with the gravity of an opening shot of dramatic foreign cinema is what makes each image so compelling. Based in Paris, the images below come from his travels in Tokyo, Taiwan, Paris, Madagascar and Sweden, as he says “the aim is always to keep a souvenir of the moment”.
As well as a prolific photographer, Berne makes up one quarter of Megaforce, the creative directorial team shooting music videos for Rihanna, Is Tropical and Dizzee Rascal. You can follow him on Instagram, see more of his photos on his website and see his hilarious and very NSFW video for Is Tropical here.

Gallery

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