Friday, September 6, 2019

This Peter Lindbergh Photo Launched the ’90s Supermodel Era



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When   took a group shot of five models in New York’s Meatpacking district in 1989, he didn’t know he was anointing them as the definitive beauties of the decade. The women were Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Tatjana Patitz, Christy Turlington, and Cindy Crawford. Though the models were known in the fashion world, their ascension to pop culture stardom began in front of Lindbergh’s lens.
The photograph ran on the January 1990 cover of British Vogue, the models’ gazes direct yet warm, the affected glamour of the 1980s transformed into an innate allure. These women had it, they were born with it—and no amount of makeup or retouching could fake it. Soon after, singer George Michael asked all five to appear in the music video for his song, Freedom!, directed by then up-and-coming filmmaker David Fincher. The new royals of fashion were holding court in everyone’s living rooms.
Lindbergh, whose career spanned over four decades, died on Tuesday at age 74. The German photographer, who was based in Paris, famously shot for Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar, as well as luxury ’90s mainstays like Donna Karan, Calvin Klein,  , and Lancôme. He was known for creating a sense of intimacy with women who were untouchable, from his stripped down black-and-white portraits of models, to his early-aughts color portraits of celebrities that positioned their fame as a glamorous oddity: Kate Hudson in shimmery sequins against an outdoor stage light, or Lucy Liu hoisting a javelin in a coral ball gown. His photos exhibited internationally at Victoria & Albert in London; Centre Pompidou in Paris; Gagosian in London, Greece, and Paris; and MoMA PS1 in New York.
In 2016, Lindbergh spoke to The Guardian about the British Vogue cover that set the tone for the decade. “I never had the idea that this was history,” he said. “It came together very naturally, effortless; you never felt you were changing the world. It was all intuition.” That sense of effortlessness shone in his images, and fit the brands of the models who posed for him, from Crawford’s girl-next-door chic to Kate Moss’s devil-may-care attitude.
“The idea of beauty had broadened,” Lindbergh told Vogue’s editor, Liz Tilberis, according to Crawford. The new woman of the era “could not be summed up with either a blonde, blue-eyed girl or a sexy brunette.” Crawford continued: “There was change in the air and Peter and Liz picked up on that. We weren’t photographed with a ton of hair and make-up; we were quite undone. Coming out of the Eighties, which was all big hair and boobs pushed up, it felt refreshing and new.”
Two years earlier, Lindbergh had photographed a similar group shot for American Vogue, but it was not immediately embraced. He lined up Turlington, Evangelista, and Patitz with Estelle Léfebure, Karen Alexander, and Rachel Williams, in loose white button downs on a Santa Monica beach. The editor at the time, Grace Mirabella, threw the pictures in the trash. She was let go from the publication soon after, and Anna Wintour took the reigns. Wintour’s vision was more suited to Lindbergh’s and she asked him to shoot the first cover under her tenure. The photographer lamented to The Guardian that he couldn’t stand the type of women that Vogue seemed to cater to before. “I’ve never been impressed by somebody who came in with a crocodile bag, you know?” he mused.
Lindbergh may not have photographed the everyday woman, but he did bring the loftiest of supermodels down to earth. His refusal to retouch his portraits is being resoundly echoed in the industry today. “The cosmetic companies have everyone brainwashed,” he told The Guardian. “I don’t retouch anything. ‘Oh, but she looks tired!’ they say. So what if she looks tired? Tired and beautiful.”
Jacqui Palumbo is Artsy’s Senior Editor, Visual Culture.

Gallery Shows You Won’t Want to Miss in New York This Fall



21 Gallery Shows You Won’t Want to Miss in New York This Fall, From Amy Sherald’s Star Turn to a Historic Cuban Artist’s US Debut

Here's a taste of what's opening this season in the Big Apple.
Amy Sherald’s When I let go of what I am, I become what I might be (Self-imagined atlas), 2018. Courtesy of Hauser & Wirth.
Amy Sherald’s When I let go of what I am, I become what I might be (Self-imagined atlas), 2018. Courtesy of Hauser & Wirth.
It’s that time of year again… back to school, back to work, and back to the galleries. With so many venues, it can be daunting to try to figure out what’s worth your time and Instagram attention. So we’ve put together a handy list of the shows we’re most looking forward to this season. Happy gallery hopping!

“George Byrne: Exit Vision” at Olsen Gruin GallerySeptember 4–October 6

George Byrne, Lings 2019). Courtesy of Olsen Gruin Gallery.
George Byrne, Lings (2019). Courtesy of Olsen Gruin Gallery.
George Byrne’s photographs capture pastel hues seen on the streets of Sydney, Miami, and Los Angeles. The photos are then rearranged into collage, somethings to the point of near abstraction.
Olsen Gruin Gallery is located at 30 Orchard Street.

“Hayv Kahraman: Not Quite Human” at Jack Shainman GallerySeptember 5–October 26

A work by Hayv Kahraman. Courtesy of Jack Shainman Gallery.
A work by Hayv Kahraman. Courtesy of Jack Shainman Gallery.
For Iraqi-born, Los Angeles-based artist Hayv Kahraman’s fourth solo show at Jack Shainman, she turns her attention to the physical and mental contortions demanded of women by internal and external forces. Her work addresses how those designated as “other” engage with the world around them.
Jack Shainman is located at 513 West 20th Street and 524 West 24th Street.

“Judith Hopf: Alifi” at Metro PicturesSeptember 5–October 5

Stepping Stairs. Installation view, 2018. KW Institute for Contemporary Art, Berlin. Photo: Frank Sperling.
Judith Hopf’s work at the KW Institute for Contemporary Art, Berlin. Photo: Frank Sperling.
Berlin-based artist Judith Hopf’s first show with Metro Pictures will see her continue her practice of forming abstract sculptures as a commentary on societal dynamics.
Metro Pictures is located at 519 West 24th Street.

“Joe Zucker: 100-Foot-Long Piece, 1968–1969” at MarlboroughSeptember 5–October 5

Joe Zucker, <i>100-Foot-Long Piece</i> [detail] (1968-1969). Courtesy of Marlborough Gallery.
Joe Zucker, 100-Foot-Long Piece (detail, 1968–69). Courtesy of Marlborough Gallery.
This year marks the 50th anniversary of Zucker’s monumental, multi-panel work, which will be on view at Marlborough’s downtown Manhattan location alongside archival pieces related to its completion. The work, though presented horizontally as a frieze of sorts, can be approached from any point, and viewed as an encyclopedic guide to styles of painting: it is just as much naturalistic as it is abstract.
Marlborough is located at 545 West 25th Street.

“Lili Jamail: Rollercoaster” at Team GallerySeptember 5–October 5

Lili Jamail, <i>Ellee Lisa</i> (2017). Courtesy of Team Gallery.
Lili Jamail, Ellee Lisa (2017). Courtesy of Team Gallery.
New York-based photographer Lili Jamail’s intimate works straddle the genres of landscape and portraiture and are described by the gallery as “conveying the calm before the storm, or the stunned silence that follows.” The show’s title, “Rollercoaster,” also nods toward extreme moods, but also towards excitement and frivolity.
Team Gallery is located at 83 Grand Street.

“Sarah Sze” at Tanya BonakdarSeptember 5–October 19

Installation view of Sarah Sze, courtesy of Tanya Bondakdar Gallery.
The author Zadie Smith said of Sarah Sze that her work is “the seam between the real and the image.” This show will span the entirety of the gallery, with the first floor dedicated to a “studio space” where Sze will put her source materials on display. Upstairs galleries will focus on her interpretations of those materials.
Tanya Bonakdar is located at 521 West 21st Street.

“Suh Seung-Won: Early Works, 1960s to 1980s” at Tina KimSeptember 5–October 12

 Suh Seung Wong, <em>Simultaneity 17-221</em> (2017). Courtesy of Tina Kim Gallery.
Suh Seung-Won, Simultaneity 17-221 (2017). Courtesy of Tina Kim Gallery.
Suh Seung-Won, a leading Korean Modernist, gets his first show at Tina Kim. The guiding principle for Suh’s work is “simultaneity,” his theory of presenting harmonious color, space, and form into their most reductive state.
Tina Kim Gallery is located at 525 West 21st Street.

“Constructing Her Universe: Loló Soldevilla” at Sean Kelly
September 5–October 19

Loló Soldevilla, <em>Sin titulo</em> (1956). Photo courtesy of Sean Kelly.
Loló Soldevilla, Sin titulo (1956). Photo courtesy of Sean Kelly.
Loló Soldevilla (1901–1971), a pioneering Cuban artist of the 1950s, gets her first comprehensive US exhibition, showcasing her contributions to geometric abstraction.
Sean Kelly is located at 475 Tenth Avenue.

“William T. Williams: Recent Paintings” at Michael Rosenfeld GallerySeptember 6–November 9

William T. Williams, <i>Back Home / Tide and Time / You and Me</i> (2017). Courtesy the artist and Michael Rosenfeld Gallery.
William T. Williams, Back Home / Tide and Time / You and Me (2017). Courtesy the artist and Michael Rosenfeld Gallery.
Some 35 paintings from Williams’s “465” series will be on display at Michael Rosenfeld Gallery, all completed in the artist’s new rural studio in Connecticut. His renewed commitment to working with color is informed by the rustic environs of a rehabbed barn studio with windows that look into the changing landscape of the seasons.
Michael Rosenfeld Gallery is located at 100 11th Avenue.

“Erin O’Keefe: Seeing Things” at Denny Dimin GallerySeptember 6–October 27

Erin O'Keefe, <em>Blue Flip</em>. Courtesy of Denny Dimin Gallery.
Erin O’Keefe, Blue Flip. Courtesy of Denny Dimin Gallery.
In addition to a BFA, Erin O’Keefe has a masters in architecture, and the two disciplines are both in evidence in her painted wall sculptures and photographs of painted wooden blocks. Both bodies of work play with space, creating strange interplays of color and form. The photographs strangely flatten O’Keefe’s still life arrangements, while the sculptures incorporate mirrors, creating reflections that play with viewers’ perceptions.
Denny Dimin Gallery is located at 39 Lispenard Street.

“Jess Johnson: Panspermia, Sing Omega” at Jack Hanley GallerySeptember 6–October 6

Jess Johnson, <i>We Float</i> (2017). Courtesy of the artist and Jack Hanley Gallery.
Jess Johnson, We Float (2017). Courtesy of the artist and Jack Hanley Gallery.
Jess Johnson’s fever-dreamy works are back for her second solo show at the gallery, this time incorporating aspects of virtual reality, a future of gender neutrality, and video game graphics.
Jack Hanley Gallery is located at 327 Broome Street.

“Tony Toscani: Daydreamers” at Massey KleinSeptember 6–October 13

Tony Toscani, <i>Couple in Bed</i> (2019). Courtesy fo the artist and Massey Klein.
Tony Toscani, Couple in Bed (2019). Courtesy fo the artist and Massey Klein.
Brooklyn-based artist Tony Toscani’s first show at Massey Klein is a funhouse mirror reflection of millennials, lumbering and confused despite having more information at their fingertips than could possibly be consumed, let alone applied to the real world in any productive way.
Massey Klein is located at 124 Forsyth Street.

“Chris Bogia: Under the Bonsai Tree” at Mrs. GallerySeptember 7–November 2

Chris Bogia, <i>Under the Bonsai Tree</i> (2019). Courtesy of Mrs. Gallery.
Chris Bogia, Under the Bonsai Tree (2019). Courtesy of Mrs. Gallery.
For his first solo show with the gallery, Chris Bogia is bringing his colorful abstractions of bonsai trees to Queens. The plant is considered a symbol of harmony and patience.
Mrs. Gallery is located at 60–40 56th Drive in Masbeth, Queens.

“Amy Sherald: The Heart of the Matter…” at Hauser & WirthSeptember 10–October 26

Amy Sherald, <i>Sometimes the king is a woman</i> (2019). ©Amy Sherald. Photo: Timothy Doyon.
Amy Sherald, Sometimes the king is a woman (2019). ©Amy Sherald. Photo: Timothy Doyon.
Amy Sherald joined mega-gallery Hauser & Wirth riding on the wave of excitement produced by her portrait of First Lady Michelle Obama. This show of monumental paintings is her first since at Hauser she joined the gallery.
Hauser & Wirth is located at 548 West 22nd Street.

“Christian Marclay: 48 War Movies and Screams” at Paula Cooper
September 12–October 19

Christian Marclay, <em>Scream (Shaking)</em>, 2019. Courtesy of Paula Cooper Gallery.
Christian Marclay, Scream (Shaking), 2019. Courtesy of Paula Cooper Gallery.
Christian Marclay‘s contribution to the current Venice Biennale, 48 War Movies, is a nightmarish compilation of 48 films about war, continuously playing side-by-side in a massive, overwhelming grid. At his latest show at Paula Cooper, he’s paired the film with a series of woodblocks depicting appropriately horrified faces, drawn from Japanese manga and Western comic books.
Paula Cooper is located at 524 West 26th Street.

“Pope.L, Jonathan Lyndon Chase, Cheyenne Julien, & Tschabalala Self: Embodiment” at Mitchell-Innes & NashSeptember 12–October 26

Jonathan Lyndon Chase, <i>watch shopping</i> (2019). Courtesy the artist and Mitchell-Innes & Nash.
Jonathan Lyndon Chase, watch shopping (2019). Courtesy the artist and Mitchell-Innes & Nash.
This group show of all-stars from the gallery roster explores the concept of the body, how it is envisioned, lived, and depicted through two-dimensional art. Each of these artists approach the body in a distinct way, underscoring the fundamental sameness of every body.
Mitchell-Innes & Nash is located at 534 West 26th Street.

“Ben Gocker: Foskers & Egg Whites” at PPOWSeptember 12–October 12

Ben Gocker, <i>Bambino</i> (2019). Courtesy of PPOW.
Ben Gocker, Bambino (2019). Courtesy of PPOW.
Fragments of old paintings, rocks, board games, cardboard, and more detritus are brought together in Ben Gocker’s quilt-like assemblages.
PPOW is located at 535 West 22nd Street.

“Jeppe Hein: I Am With You” at 303 GallerySeptember 12–October 19

Jeppe Hein, Intersecting Circles (2019). Photo ©Jeppe Hein, courtesy of 303 Gallery, New York.
Jeppe Hein, Intersecting Circles (2019). Photo © Jeppe Hein, courtesy of 303 Gallery, New York.
Jeppe Hein has essentially made an art form out of fun house mirrors with his sculptures of tall mirrored strips anchored to the floor. His delightful manipulation of the typical white cube gallery space grows out of the artist’s interest in Eastern philosophy.
303 Gallery is located at 555 West 21st Street.

Richard Serra at Gagosian
September 16–November 2, September 17–December 7, September 17–February 2

Two rounds being forged by Richard Serra in Germany. Photo courtesy of the artist and Gagosian Gallery.
Two rounds being forged by Richard Serra in Germany. Photo by Silke von Berswordt, courtesy of the artist and Gagosian Gallery.
Gagosian is staging a trio of exhibitions dedicated to Richard Serra, with new drawings in “Triptychs and Diptychs” on the Upper East Side and the artist’s signature large-scale Cor-Ten steel sculptures at the two Chelsea locations. “Forged Rounds” will include four new works, while “Reverse Curve” will present a massive 99-foot-wide and 13-foot-tall work of the same name. The piece was conceived for an unrealized public art project in Italy in 2005, and has finally been completed for this show.
Gagosian is located at 980 Madison Avenue, 555 West 24th Street, and 522 West 21st Street.

“Walter Swennen: Leavin home but there is no home at all” at Gladstone GallerySeptember 18–October 19

Walter Swennen, <i>Untitled</i> (2019). Courtesy of Gladstone Gallery.
Walter Swennen, Untitled (2019). Courtesy of Gladstone Gallery.
Walter Swennen’s colorful paintings may look playful, but these psychologically charged works are also rooted in the writings of Sigmund Freud and Søren Kierkegaard and the artist’s personal concerns about mass media.
Gladstone Gallery is located at 515 West 24th Street.

“Henry Taylor: NIECE COUSIN KIN LOOK HOW LONG IT’S BEEN” at Blum & PoeSeptember 24–November 2

Henry Taylor, <i>Not Yet Titled</i> (2019). Courtesy of the artist and Blum & Poe.
Henry Taylor, Not Yet Titled (2019). Courtesy of the artist and Blum & Poe.
Henry Taylor‘s new works include portraits of people he’s met in Senegal, Spain, Paris, and New York that paint a picture of our broader society.
Blum & Poe is located at 19 East 66th Street.

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