Wednesday, December 9, 2015

Bret Easton Ellis on Living in the Cult of Likability

Credit Luisa Vera


Turning Point: Uber becomes one of the world’s most valuable start-ups.
On a recent episode of the television series “South Park,” the character Cartman and other townspeople who are enthralled with Yelp, the app that lets customers rate and review restaurants, remind maĆ®tre d’s and waiters that they will be posting reviews of their meals. These “Yelpers” threaten to give the eateries only one star out of five if they don’t please them and do exactly as they say. The restaurants feel that they have no choice but to comply with the Yelpers, who take advantage of their power by asking for free dishes and making suggestions on improving the lighting. The restaurant employees tolerate all this with increasing frustration and anger — at one point Yelp reviewers are even compared to the Islamic State group — before both parties finally arrive at a truce. Yet unknown to the Yelpers, the restaurants decide to get their revenge by contaminating the Yelpers’ plates with every bodily fluid imaginable.
  

Bret Easton Ellis Credit Jeff Burton

The point of the episode is that today everyone thinks that they’re a professional critic (“Everyone relies on my Yelp reviews!”), even if they have no idea what they’re talking about. But it’s also a bleak commentary on what has become known as the “reputation economy.” In depicting the restaurants’ getting their revenge on the Yelpers, the episode touches on the fact that services today are also rating us, which raises a question: How will we deal with the way we present ourselves online and in social media, and how do individuals brand themselves in what is a widening corporate culture?
The idea that everybody thinks they’re specialists with voices that deserve to be heard has actually made everyone’s voice less meaningful. All we’re doing is setting ourselves up to be sold to — to be branded, targeted and data-mined. But this is the logical endgame of the democratization of culture and the dreaded cult of inclusivity, which insists that all of us must exist under the same umbrella of corporate regulation — a mandate that dictates how we should express ourselves and behave.
Most people of a certain age probably noticed this when they joined their first corporation, Facebook, which has its own rules regarding expressions of opinion and sexuality. Facebook encouraged users to “like” things, and because it was a platform where many people branded themselves on the social Web for the first time, the impulse was to follow the Facebook dictum and present an idealized portrait of their lives — a nicer, friendlier, duller self. And it was this burgeoning of the likability cult and the dreaded notion of “relatability” that ultimately reduced everyone to a kind of neutered clockwork orange, enslaved to the corporate status quo. To be accepted we have to follow an upbeat morality code where everything must be liked and everybody’s voice respected, and any person who has a negative opinion — a dislike — will be shut out of the conversation. Anyone who resists such groupthink is ruthlessly shamed. Absurd doses of invective are hurled at the supposed troll to the point that the original “offense” often seems negligible by comparison.
I’ve been rated and reviewed since I became a published author at the age of 21, so this environment only seems natural to me. A reputation emerged based on how many reviewers liked or didn’t like my book. That’s the way it goes — cool, I guess. I was liked as often as I was disliked, and that was OK because I didn’t get emotionally involved. Being reviewed negatively never changed the way I wrote or the topics I wanted to explore, no matter how offended some readers were by my descriptions of violence and sexuality. As a member of Generation X, rejecting, or more likely ignoring, the status quo came easily to me. One of my generation’s loudest anthems was Joan Jett’s “Bad Reputation,” whose chorus rang out: “I don’t give a damn about my reputation/ I’ve never been afraid of any deviation.” I was a target of corporate-think myself when the company that owned my publishing house decided it didn’t like the contents of a particular novel I had been contracted to write and refused to publish it on the grounds of “taste.” (I could have sued but another publisher who liked the book published it instead.) It was a scary moment for the arts — a conglomerate was deciding what should and should not be published and there were loud arguments and protests on both sides of the divide. But this was what the culture was about: People could have differing opinions and discuss them rationally. You could disagree and this was considered not only the norm but interesting as well. It was a debate. This was a time when you could be opinionated — and, yes, a questioning, reasonable critic — and not be considered a troll.
Now all of us are used to rating movies, restaurants, books, even doctors, and we give out mostly positive reviews because, really, who wants to look like a hater? But increasingly, services are also rating us. Companies in the sharing economy, like Uber and Airbnb, rate their customers and shun those who don’t make the grade. Opinions and criticisms flow in both directions, causing many people to worry about how they’re measuring up. Will the reputation economy put an end to the culture of shaming or will the bland corporate culture of protecting yourself by “liking” everything — of being falsely polite just to be accepted by the herd — grow stronger than ever? Giving more positive reviews to get one back? Instead of embracing the true contradictory nature of human beings, with all of their biases and imperfections, we continue to transform ourselves into virtuous robots. This in turn has led to the awful idea — and booming business — of reputation management, where a firm is hired to help shape a more likable, relatable You. Reputation management is about gaming the system. It’s a form of deception, an attempt to erase subjectivity and evaluation through intuition, for a price.
Ultimately, the reputation economy is about making money. It urges us to conform to the blandness of corporate culture and makes us react defensively by varnishing our imperfect self so we can sell and be sold things. Who wants to share a ride or a house or a doctor with someone who doesn’t have a good online reputation? The reputation economy depends on everyone maintaining a reverentially conservative, imminently practical attitude: Keep your mouth shut and your skirt long, be modest and don’t have an opinion. The reputation economy is yet another example of the blanding of culture, and yet the enforcing of groupthink has only increased anxiety and paranoia, because the people who embrace the reputation economy are, of course, the most scared. What happens if they lose what has become their most valuable asset? The embrace of the reputation economy is an ominous reminder of how economically desperate people are and that the only tools they have to raise themselves up the economic ladder are their sparklingly upbeat reputations — which only adds to their ceaseless worry over their need to be liked.
Empowerment doesn’t come from liking this or that thing, but from being true to our messy contradictory selves. There are limits to showcasing our most flattering assets because no matter how genuine and authentic we think we are, we’re still just manufacturing a construct, no matter how accurate it may be. What is being erased in the reputation economy are the contradictions inherent in all of us. Those of us who reveal flaws and inconsistencies become terrifying to others, the ones to avoid. An “Invasion of the Body Snatchers”-like world of conformity and censorship emerges, erasing the opinionated and the contrarian, corralling people into an ideal. Forget the negative or the difficult. Who wants solely that? But what if the negative and the difficult were attached to the genuinely interesting, the compelling, the unusual? That’s the real crime being perpetrated by the reputation culture: stamping out passion; stamping out the individual.

Tuesday, December 8, 2015

... Collector Martin Margulies

Martin Z. Margulies in Miami. Credit Jon Lowe
MIAMI — To escape the crush of the Art Basel art fair, which ended Sunday, and visit Martin Z. Margulies at his voluminous warehouse and exhibition space for art in the Wynwood Arts District is to realize that this collector was there before it all began. Before his Twomblys were trading for more than $70 million at auction. Before the Arte Povera pieces he started buying years ago became chic. Before the market got red-hot and art became an asset class.
If Mr. Margulies were to sell some of the approximately 4,000 pieces he has amassed over more than 30 years of collecting — by de Kooning, Eliasson, Flavin, Noguchi, Segal, Serra — he might be a richer man than he has already become as a real estate developer. But he has no intention of doing that.
This is a guy who remembers exactly where, when and why he got every piece he owns — from the 1939 Miró constellation he bought from Marcel Duchamp’s widow in 1980 to the granite blocks by Giovanni Anselmo that he bought in October for his Key Biscayne, Fla., apartment at a London auction.
  
From left, the artist Anselm Kiefer and the curator Katherine Hinds with workers at the Margulies Collection at the Warehouse in Miami. Credit Jeanie Ambrosio
“I’m so excited about it,” Mr. Margulies said of the Anselmo. “People — if they see six rocks hanging on my wall, they’re going to say, ‘The guy’s nuts.’”
Mr. Margulies is one of several private collectors who dominate Miami’s art scene; the others include Norman Braman, Rosa and Carlos de la Cruz, Donald and Mera Rubell and Ella Fontanals-Cisneros.
He routinely rejects offers for his widely coveted holdings (like one of Lichtenstein’s four Picasso parodies) that others would find too good to refuse.
It’s not hard to see why it would be hard to be married to Mr. Margulies: He has been divorced twice. It’s clear that this man’s priority is buying and looking at the art he loves.
“He lives and breathes art,” said David Leiber, a director at the David Zwirner Gallery, who has known Mr. Margulies for 25 years. “From Pop through to the present, he’s put together a kind of unrivaled collection.”
Mr. Margulies, who refuses to give his age, can also be by his own description “not easy to be around.”
He has been openly critical of the PƩrez Art Museum Miami, for receiving millions in tax dollars rather than relying solely on private contributors.
“Marty’s never been given an award for diplomacy,” said Mr. Braman, the billionaire auto dealer and founder of the Institute of Contemporary Art. “He calls it the way he sees it.”
Despite consistently being named one of the top 200 collectors in the world by ARTnews, Mr. Margulies is “under the radar,” said the dealer Tanya Bonakdar. Unshaven in casual pants and a long-sleeved collarless shirt, with a New York accent and a forthright warmth, he defies the image of a cultivated connoisseur.
And given that he rarely parts with any of his artwork, Mr. Margulies seems like something of a dinosaur — the kind of collector drowned out by an increasingly transactional marketplace for which he has palpable disdain.
“I think it’s absurd,” he said. “It benefited me financially, but I don’t sell.”
“A lot of those hedge fund guys have art advisers who say, ‘Buy this for $30 million,’ and they say ‘Sure, I make that in four hours,’” he added. “I just don’t relate to that stuff. If they want to talk business, let them talk business with somebody else.”
This is a bit of a crossroads for the collector. He has mounted the most ambitious show of his career on Anselm Kiefer, currently on view until the collection closes for the season in April; he has decided to retire from real estate — “It’s repetitive” — and he is constructing a new building for his longtime cause, a shelter for women and children.
Mr. Margulies said that the proceeds from admission to the collection ($10; free for Florida students) and tours ($25 per person, usually led by his collection’s longtime curator, Katherine Hinds) go to the shelter, Lotus House, which is run by Constance Collins, his ex-wife (whom Mr. Margulies describes as his “best friend”). Women from the shelter work as guards at the warehouse.
Thelma Golden, director of the Studio Museum in Harlem, who stopped by the collection during Art Basel, said she makes a point of visiting every time she’s in town and appreciates the way Mr. Margulies “opens it to the public.”
Mr. Margulies grew up in New York, the son of grocers in Harlem. He got the collecting bug after attending an auction. “Things seemed to fall into place,” he said. “I didn’t have a lot of money, but a lot of the works weren’t a lot of money.”
“Friends said, ‘What are you doing?’” he added. “‘Why are you putting money into this stuff?’”
He moved to Miami in the early 1960s and opened his space, called the Margulies Collection at the Warehouse, in 1999, expanding it twice to the current 45,000-square-foot location on NW 27th Street.
The warehouse is run as a nonprofit institution — with educational programs, exhibitions and loans — that is funded by the Martin Z. Margulies Foundation. Most of the warehouse’s artworks are owned by the foundation, which has tax-exempt status.
Mr. Margulies maintains a TriBeCa apartment in Manhattan, where he has developed close relationships with a number of dealers, like Ms. Bonakdar, from whom he bought the Susan Philipsz sound installation now showing at his warehouse.
He loans his work for shows (one of his Stellas is in the artist’s current Whitney retrospective). And while he goes to auctions because “they tell me what I can afford,” Mr. Margulies said his budget is usually in the $200,000 range per piece and he can spend no more than $3 million on a single work, which is low for prime lots these days.
The collection’s main audience is the high school and college kids who regularly fill the warehouse, Mr. Margulies said. And while he has bequested money — $5 million to the Whitney, $5 million to the Met — he doesn’t plan to have his art given to museums after he’s gone. “I don’t want to see my work in storage, brought out every 10 years,” he said.
Instead, he will sell his collection to help provide for his four grown children and to benefit the underprivileged. “A lot of people like to see their names on buildings,” he said. “I don’t care. We’re so insignificant in many ways.”
“What would I do with $50 million? Buy more art,” he continued. “But the problem is, you can’t replace what I have sold.”

... The Story Behind Brooke

Fashion & Beauty | Women's Fashion

The Story Behind Brooke Shields’s Famous Calvin Klein Jeans


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  1. Calvin Klein launched his jeans line in 1978, becoming the first high-fashion designer to introduce a diffusion denim line. By 1979, the company had sold $70 million worth of women’s jeans.
  2. In 1980, Klein cast Brooke Shields in a number of overtly sexy print ads and commercials shot by Richard Avedon. In one ad, Shields asks, “You want to know what comes between me and my Calvins? Nothing.” The commercial was promptly banned by ABC and CBS in New York — for insinuating that Shields wasn't wearing any underwear.
  3. The jeans featured a distinctive stitch pattern on the back along with a Calvin Klein label that distinguished them as a “designer” status symbol.
  4. The style was so tight that stores, such as The French Jean Store in Manhattan, brought in a sofa so customers could lie down while they tried to zip up their jeans.
  5. Klein reportedly came up with the idea to start a jeans line at Studio 54, where Elio Fiorucci’s skin-tight “Safety Jeans” were extremely popular.
  6. When asked about his marketing approach, Klein famously declared, “Jeans are sex.” He added, “The tighter they are, the better they sell.”
© The Richard Avedon Foundation
This week, The Museum at FIT opens “Denim: Fashion’s Frontier,” a show dedicated to the history of jeans. Among the pieces on view — which include everything from 19th-century patchwork to embroidered Levi’s from the 1960s — are the Calvin Klein jeans Brooke Shields wore in 1980, at age 15, when she famously said: “What gets between me and my Calvins? Nothing.” In honor of the exhibition, the museum’s Assistant Curator of Costume, Emma McClendon, breaks down the famous pair. Hover over the points above to learn more.

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http://www.publico.pt/mundo/noticia/o-estado-islamico-sempre-existiu-e-a-arabia-saudita-1716649

Ziauddin Sardar, reformista muƧulmano, acredita que se um grupo terrorista for destruƭdo outro ocuparƔ o seu lugar. Isto, atƩ se atacar a ideologia na base do extremismo, o wahhabismo saudita. Riad e os terroristas usam as mesmas leis, diz.