Saturday, November 18, 2017

Amazon Sellers Brood as States Come Calling for Taxes




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The fees Amazon charges its marketplace sellers are a huge business for the company, totaling nearly $8 billion during its most recent quarter, up from $5.65 billion a year earlier. The e-commerce giant leaves collection of sales taxes up to those sellers, but few want to do so without assurances that competing merchants will do the same. CreditBryan Anselm for The New York Times
SEATTLE — Amazon and the tax man are back at it again.
For years, the company and state governments scuffled over Amazon’s resistance to charging state sales tax, which helped keep prices low on its e-commerce site and angered politicians and other retailers. Eventually, Amazon began adding the tax in states across the country.
But there was a loophole. Amazon added the tax only when the item came from its own inventory, not from the millions of independent merchants who sell products through Amazon’s website. Amazon left it up to those sellers — who account for half of all items sold on the site — to collect sales tax on their own. But, according to sellers, tax lawyers and accountants who work with them, most do not.
Now states, thirsty for the millions of dollars in unpaid sales taxes revenue, are coming for their money.
Amazon recently warned its sellers that the company, as of Jan. 1, would be collecting sales tax from merchants who ship orders to its home state, Washington, as it seeks to comply with a state law signed in July. That will be the first time Amazon has collected a state sales tax for the merchants known as marketplace sellers on its site.
It is a grudging concession by the online retail giant. In South Carolina, the company is fighting an effort by the state’s Department of Revenue to use existing laws to force Amazon to collect tax on marketplace sales. The state is arguing that Amazon owes it $57 million in such taxes from last year. A judge’s decision in the case is pending.
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Other states are going after Amazon’s sellers, a much less powerful target, for unpaid sales taxes. In Massachusetts, a judge in late September ordered Amazon to give the state information about merchants who stored goods in the state. Sellers have reported receiving letters from tax investigators in California, too.
Consumers may absorb much of the new costs. Depending on the state, sales tax can add 5 percent to nearly 10 percent to the cost of an order.
Jill Kerr, a spokeswoman for Amazon, declined to comment. In a recent filing with regulators, Amazon singled out South Carolina’s effort as a risk. “If South Carolina or other states were successfully to seek additional adjustments of a similar nature, we could be subject to significant additional tax liabilities,” Amazon said in the filing. “We intend to defend ourselves vigorously in this matter.”
Taxes remain a political sore spot for Amazon, even as it has become one of the most successful companies in the world. President Trump has even taken to criticizing the business on Twitter as a “no-tax monopoly,” attacks that often appear prompted by coverage of him in The Washington Post, which is personally owned by Jeff Bezos, Amazon’s chief executive.
Amazon pays hundreds of millions of dollars annually in income taxes and charges tax on the sale of its own goods in every state that has a sales tax. But because so many marketplace sellers do not collect sales tax, there is some legitimacy to the idea that Amazon is not doing everything it can to make sure the government gets its cut.
Caught in the middle are Amazon’s marketplace sellers, who run the gamut from small mom-and-pop operations to more sophisticated merchants boasting teams of employees.
On Amazon’s marketplace, sellers list their products for sale and determine the price. Many take advantage of an additional program, called Fulfillment by Amazon, through which their inventory is stored in Amazon’s warehouses and shipped by the company.
The sellers pay Amazon fees for those services, but the e-commerce giant leaves it up to them to collect sales tax where they are required to do so. The fees Amazon charges its marketplace sellers are a huge business for the company, totaling nearly $8 billion during its most recent quarter, up from $5.65 billion a year earlier.
Many of the merchants said they have received conflicting advice on their sales tax obligations from accountants and lawyers, according to interviews with several individual merchants and consultants who work with dozens of sellers each. Few want to charge sales tax without assurances that competing merchants on Amazon will do the same.
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Many sellers on Amazon take advantage of a program, called Fulfillment by Amazon, through which their inventory is stored in Amazon warehouses and shipped by the company. CreditPatrick Semansky/Associated Press
“There’s a lot of anxiety,” said Chris McCabe, who previously worked at Amazon and now provides consulting services to merchants. “There’s a lot of ambiguity here.”
Many Amazon sellers, Mr. McCabe said, live in fear of getting a letter or phone call from a state investigator that leads to a hefty bill for uncollected back sales taxes, which could also come with penalties and interest. The sellers interviewed for this article would speak only on the condition of anonymity, saying they feared attracting the notice of such an investigator.
Sales taxes on e-commerce are governed by a 1992 Supreme Court decision, Quill Corporation v. North Dakota, which established that states cannot collect taxes from companies that did not have a physical presence there.
In its early days, Amazon took advantage of that law by keeping its warehouses out of populous states like California. But as the company has grown and focused more on reducing delivery times, it reached deals with many states to set up warehouses inside their borders. As part of those agreements, Amazon typically agreed to begin charging sales taxes after a delay of a few years.
Sellers who sign up for Fulfillment by Amazon are probably the most exposed to the state income tax laws. As part of the program, their merchandise gets distributed to numerous Amazon warehouses. Most states take the position that having their inventory in a warehouse, even if the facility belongs to Amazon, creates a duty to charge sales tax on marketplace sales in those states.
Not all advisers agree. One electronics seller, who has millions of dollars in annual sales on Amazon, said he only collected sales taxes for orders delivered in his state, on the advice of his accountant.
Accountants are not in agreement on the issue either. Michael Fleming, an accountant of Peisner Johnson in Texas, said his firm’s business was booming with Amazon marketplace sellers. He advises them, he said, to charge sales tax wherever a state can argue it has a “nexus” — the term most used for a physical presence.
He said he believed the reason Amazon has been reluctant to step in and charge sales tax on marketplace orders is that it could assume a large additional liability for any mistakes the sellers make.
“Maybe the seller mislabels something, and tax that should be collected isn’t,” Mr. Fleming said. “Then Amazon gets audited. Amazon is paying tax out of their pocket when it’s really a mistake by an individual seller.”
Mr. Fleming said he has heard from clients that the states of Washington and California have been particularly aggressive in going after them for back taxes on Amazon marketplace sales.
But it could be that the states are simply focusing on a fast-growing part of retail.
“Given the volume of businesses that make retail sales through Amazon’s marketplace platform, it is likely that some of these businesses may have been contacted through the normal course of our tax discovery efforts,” said Beverly Crichfield, a spokeswoman for Washington’s Department of Revenue.
With concerns mounting among sellers, the Multistate Tax Commission, an intergovernmental state tax agency, recently offered an amnesty programthat frees marketplace sellers from back tax liabilities when they take steps to collect them on current sales. But some states, including New York, California and Washington, did not participate in the program. Only 852 sellers out of the hundreds of thousands estimated to be selling on Amazon applied for the program.
Paul Rafelson, an adjunct professor at Pace University’s law school and a lawyer who works with Amazon sellers, said he believed that some states were going after sellers for back taxes to avoid a face-off with the company.
He said the scramble by states and cities to woo Amazon as it seeks a place for its second headquarters — bidding has set off a huge competition — has made state governments even less inclined to go after Amazon.
“A lot of states,” he said, “have told me it’s too political to go after Amazon.”
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The Death Knell for the Bricks-and-Mortar Store? Not Yet




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Kate Filmer-Wilson shops in the client atelier at Galvan’s first store in the Notting Hill area of London.CreditLauren Fleishman for The New York Times
On a quiet strip of Rue de Marignan, just down the block from the Paris power-lunch spot L’Avenue, Alex Bolen, the chief executive of Oscar de la Renta, was standing outside No. 4, where the brand is to open a store next May.
“We think long and hard before we enter into a lease,” Mr. Bolen said. “With all that’s going on in retail, we need to think even harder. For a luxury brand, what’s the point of a store, at least a bricks-and-mortar store?”
It’s a question many in the industry are asking, and trying to answer anew. In a difficult climate for retail, the stakes are very real, as 4, rue de Marignan makes clear. Above the doorway, a sign hung reading “Reed Krakoff.” Mr. Krakoff, now the chief artistic officer of Tiffany & Company, shuttered his namesake brand in 2015 and never opened a shop in the space.
Recent years have seen store closings from small brands and seismic contractions from major retailers, including Hudson’s Bay Company’s saleof the landmark Lord & Taylor building on Fifth Avenue last month to WeWork, the office-sharing start-up. (Lord & Taylor will rent about a quarter of its former space to continue operating.)
But the solution, say several retail innovators, is not the end of bricks and mortar, as some in the industry once anticipated.
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“There was a time six or seven years ago when there was only talk of pure play e-commerce,” said Stephanie Phair, the chief strategy officer of Farfetch, the marketplace and retail platform that helps brands do business online. “What we’ve seen from a millennial consumer behavior point of view is customers really want that joined-up online and offline experience.”
What that means is a renovation of the old bricks-and-mortar ideal. Instead of the arms race for the biggest location on the most desirable street, a new model focused on multifunctional, integrated stores is gaining currency: less storehouses of product than event spaces, classrooms, community centers, showrooms or studios.
In the case of Oscar de la Renta, the two-story Marignan space will serve as not only the brand’s retail home in Paris, but also the showroom for its four annual wholesale presentations. Jeang Kim, an interior designer and sister of Laura Kim, the brand’s co-creative director, is designing it as a modular space: Displays can be cleared for customer-entertaining events and dinners, like the brand has begun to hold in New York following its runway shows, and a tailoring studio will allow customers to have fittings and alterations done on site.
But while the physical stores continue to drive business, Oscar de la Renta has been finding new customers outside of its usual channels. Since joining Farfetch earlier this year to expand its e-commerce, often by way of the site’s personal shoppers, the company has seen sales in the range of $200,000 a month, mostly from new customers. “Two hundred thousand dollars, seemingly out of thin air,” Mr. Bolen said.
The brand’s stores now are inviting those personal shoppers to visit, to learn more about the collections. And they, in turn, may take their clients to the physical shops.
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The Galvan store combines its work areas and showroom with space for shoppers.CreditLauren Fleishman for The New York Times
The model for success, as Mr. Bolen sees it, is a combination of on- and off-line. “We think bricks and mortar is going to be a critical part of it, but a very different part than it’s been in the past,” Mr. Bolen said. “Bricks-and-mortar stores — those aren’t necessarily advantages any more.” Especially in second-tier markets, he added, “stores might be a real millstone.”
Where brands affiliated with major luxury groups, like LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton and Kering, once had a clear competitive advantage in negotiating for real estate, given their ability to leverage entire portfolios of brands, smaller companies like Oscar de la Renta and the upstart London-based evening wear label Galvan are finding the playing field leveled by the rise of the smaller shop.
“I was with these very big brands that sell tens of thousands of units a week and have flagship stores,” said Paul O’Regan, the chief executive of Galvan, who previously was an executive at the Gucci Group (now Kering) and Burberry. “Everyone’s closing stores around us and the fashion model’s changing.”
Galvan just opened its first store, combining its work space and showroom with shopping for walk-in customers and by appointment. And its location in the Notting Hill area of London ensures lower overhead than on a luxury retail strip like Mount Street, a few miles east.
Not only will the store have the current season’s options but customers also may order from the next season’s collection and browse past collections to have pieces revived in custom colors, working with personal shoppers or, in some cases, the founders themselves. Appointments also may be made at a client’s home or office.
“We wanted to throw away all of those preconceptions and say: ‘What would be the dream scenario for a woman buying a dress?’ ” Mr. O’Regan said.
Robert Burke, whose New York-based company has consulted on retail strategies for industry players including Ralph Lauren, Chloé and Bulgari, has seen such thinking emerge in recent years. Even the larger retailers, he said, “are looking at just how many flagships or large stores they really need. That format worked for decades and decades. With the growth of online, it doesn’t seem to be working. Bigger isn’t better, necessarily. More focused is better, I think. And more intimate and more personal.”
The distinction, he added, was between the old idea of department stores and the emerging model of the “apartment store.”
Technically speaking, the store-as-home — or hub — is nothing new. Harry Gordon Selfridge, the founder of Selfridges in London, once decreed that “a store should be a social center,” and put an ice rink and a shooting range in his. But after several years of chilly, gallery-like shop design, a homey feeling is again becoming dominant.
MatchesFashion.com, the London-based retailer, began as a single bricks-and-mortar store in Wimbledon Village (called simply Matches). But while business from its (now three) stores has been dwarfed by its global e-commerce, as its rechristening as MatchesFashion.com suggests, the company is continuing to invest in new stores. After a year of testing smaller, homier stores as part of a pop-up program called “In Residence,” it is scheduled to open a new permanent space (the company prefers not to call it a “store”) at No. 5 Carlos Place in Mayfair in the spring.
The space will have two floors of retail as well as floors for private shopping, but equally important will be the floor that is to house the company’s broadcasting and content hub. Classes, panel discussions and events will be held there, all of which will be streamed on Facebook Live and YouTube, its social channels and its website. And all of it will be digitally shoppable.
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The MatchesFashion.com program called “In Residence,” in New York in April.
“That’s the beauty of what we’re doing,” said Ulric Jerome, the company’s chief executive. “You don’t have to create an enormous department store to have a reach that is 10 or 100 times bigger than that department store. The reach is way bigger than the physical space. But the physical space enables you to produce amazing content.”
The Carlos Place store will have fewer choices than the full MatchesFashion.com range; it will be “the curation of the curation, and we’ll change the product quite often,” Mr. Jerome said. But iPads will allow browsing in-store, and all products will be available within 90 minutes for delivery within metropolitan London.
But at the company’s existing stores, 40 percent of the sales already are done via iPad. It reflects the reality that, for Matches, the online dwarfs the physical in every way: 95 percent of Matches’ business is online, Mr. Jerome said, and 85 percent is done outside of Britain.
Mr. Jerome has confidence in the hybrid online/offline model, with smaller physical and larger digital space.
“We tested it,” Mr. Jerome said. “Now we are investing in it. We think it’s part of the future of the way we see retail.” And he added that Apax Partners, which in September announced an agreement to take a majority stake in the company — one that values it at about $1 billion — is fully supportive.
Even those brands born online are stepping into the physical world. The RealReal, the online luxury consignment giant — it receives 8,000 to 10,000 consignment items per day, according to Julie Wainwright, its founder and chief executive — has spent a year testing pop-ups. And this month it is setting up a permanent retail space on Wooster Street in New York City.
Ms. Wainwright is envisioning the space as community center as much as shop: RealReal’s staff of experts, from watch gurus to fashion historians, will offer clinics and classes and offer appraisals, and the store will include a coffee bar and flower shop.
It will also, lest one forget, have a curated selection of the website’s clothes, shoes, accessories, jewelry and more: a fraction of the online offering, but a selection tailored to New York consumers.
The RealReal’s pop-up experiment last December in New York revealed a particular synergy between on- and off-line shopping, and a customer base ready and willing to combine the two, Ms. Wainwright said. And, she added, the average purchase at the pop-up was larger than the average one online.
“If you walk into the store, everything you see will also be online, and anything you see online you can see in-store,” she said. “What we saw when we ran the pop-up, some people went in, saw the item, thought about it, ordered it online that night and picked it up in the store that next morning.”
Such synergy is what drives Ms. Wainwright, and others like her, toward their new approach. While the death knell for the bricks-and-mortar store has been premature, the online experience is never far away.
“There are going to be iPads everywhere,” Ms. Wainwright said.
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