In my closet, I own ten Pleats Please garments, pieces that are made from an accordion-type fabric with soft tiers of pleats and are created by Japanese designer Issey Miyake. Sometimes when I’m wearing them on the subway, I’ll examine how my top and pants fold, drape, expand, and flatten. When I cross my legs, the shape of the pants creates a billowing effect on my thighs, accentuating my curves; I’ve also noticed that I could quickly smooth out the shape to obscure my body if someone stared at me. Other designers produce garments that conceal the wearer’s body too: Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo, and Simone Rocha, to name a few. But nothing compares to Miyake’s designs regarding the sense of security I get. The fluidity of Miyake’s garments leaves me reassured that I could always obscure myself, a trans woman, and disengage from any fears of people scrutinizing my body. It’s not that I want to disappear, but sometimes I wish people didn’t notice me at all. |
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