For most people — fashion folk included — the house of Azzedine Alaïa is enigmatic. But not for Hideki Seo: the Hiroshima-born, Paris-based artist, who is also a designer in his own right, met Alaïa at Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts in 2005, when the couturier reviewed thesis collections, Seo’s among them. Soon after, Alaïa hired him to research Japanese fabrics. Now — a decade later — Seo is Alaïa’s first assistant, responsible for sketching everything from silhouettes to inventive prints, as well as studying materials and their accouterments. Here, he draws a day in his life exclusively for T.
7 a.m. Breakfast at home, in the Marais
An early — and spirited — riser, Seo greets the day. “Today will be beautiful! Last night, Mr. Alaïa invited me to dinner, so that’s on my mind — he always energizes me and inspires me to create.” (“Mouchi” is Alaïa’s nickname for Seo.)
8 a.m. Getting dressed
Seo has perfected a uniform. “This is the best outfit for me, knowing that I’ll be on the move all day,” he says. “I’ve had this Martin Margiela belt for 15 years and I’m loyal to these Uniqlo jeans. I’ve gone through seven pairs of the same exact style.”
9 a.m. A factory visit in Montmartre
Before he heads to the studio, Seo stops by a factory to pick up material for one of his own wearable art pieces, which incorporate surreal shapes and bright palettes. (Two of his designs are included in the “Fairy Tale Fashion” exhibition at the Museum at FIT.) Sometimes he drops in daily, sometimes only three times a week, depending on the project at hand — in this case it’s a bulky, stackable dress. “I ask the man for a good cut, and a good price, and he tells me not to worry, he knows me.”
2 p.m. At the Alaïa studio, in the Marais
Seo, whose duties range from researching materials to sketching, says, “The best moments are working alongside Mr. Alaïa at the atelier. I learn so much from him — here, he’s telling me about skirt hemlines as I take notes. We’re surrounded by the usual tools, and the usual topics: silhouettes, volume and color.”
7 p.m. Drinks at Alaïa’s home, in the Marais
He has an aperitif with Alaïa and his partner, the painter Christoph von Weyhe. Caroline Fabre Bazin, Alaïa’s studio director, and the gallerist and 10 Corso Como founder Carla Sozzani also attend, along with Seo’s wife, Miki, and a few others. “Of course, there’s Didine, too,” Seo says. “He’s Mr. Alaïa’s 8-year-old St. Bernard. We all talk as though we’re family.”
10 p.m. Skype meetings
Back at home in the Marais, Seo speaks over Skype to Susan Barrett and Kelly Peck of the consulting group Barrett Barrera Projects, whom he met in New York three years ago. “Susan opened the door to the art world for me and now, I’m working with her on exhibition opportunities in China,” Seo says, shifting out of Alaïa mode. On the other screen is Beth Terry, one of his biggest champions. “I appreciate that technology lets us speak face-to-face.”
12 a.m. Working at home
“After being together for a decade, I’ve adopted Mr. Alaïa’s work ethic,” Seo says, referencing the designer’s nonstop mentality. But, he’s careful to point out that toiling round-the-clock is separate from the runaway train-speed of the fashion calendar. Alaïa shows on his own schedule, separate from Paris Fashion Week, and his upcoming presentation is scheduled for April 3. Here, Seo experiments with the proportions of a future Alaïa garment.
3 a.m. Sketching before bed
“I like to work until 2 or 3 in the morning,” Seo says. He listens to music while he draws, typically a mix of T.Rex, Sid Vicious, Buena Vista Social Club and Ry Cooder. “Initially, it was difficult to separate my own projects from my work for Mr. Alaïa, but I filled up 1,000 blank pages with drawings to sort of reset myself. Then I was able to split my brain between the two.”
T Magazine Newsletter
Sign up for a weekly compendium of exquisite and exclusive fashion, design, food, interiors and travel coverage.
No comments:
Post a Comment