Wednesday, October 27, 2021

HELMUT NEWTON. LEGACY

 


Helmut Newton New Exhibition

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HELMUT NEWTON. LEGACY

A RETROSPECTIVE SHOW ON THE
OCCASION OF HIS 101ST BIRTHDAY

31 October 2021 – 22 May 2022

Helmut Newton can be grasped only with difficulty. Most of us believe we know his work, at least its important aspects. Yet the German-Australian photographer left behind an oeuvre so uniquely influential and iconic that every systematic effort to come to terms with it, with even the slightest claim to comprehensiveness, is doomed to failure. And so is this chronological exhibition, which will tour internationally after its Berlin presentation, just another attempt to get closer to what is among the most published bodies of photographic work ever. It is at once of our time and timeless; it still disturbs and fascinates us.


Helmut Newton, Elle, Paris 1969

Newton arrived at his inimitable style in Paris in the 1960s, his dynamic vision manifested, for example, in a series of photographs of the then-revolutionary fashion designs of André Courrèges that he took for the British magazine Queen in 1964. In retrospect it is clear that Newton needed an adequate sparring partner: working with kindred spirits was essential for the successful fulfillment of any photographic assignment and ultimately it opened the door to the avant-garde. This symbiosis was repeated in his intense collaborations with Yves Saint Laurent, Karl Lagerfeld, and Thierry Mugler.
His female models from the 1970s appear singly or in groups, usually elegant and eroticized, sometimes anarchic and playful. Although primarily fashion images, at the same time they subtly comment on contemporary society, exploring the radicalization of bourgeois youth. Newton always found inspiration for his presentations in real-life situations but, with Newton, one can never be certain where the reality ends and the illusion begins.


Helmut Newton, Woman examining Man, Calvin Klein, US Vogue, St. Tropez 1975

His interest in portrait photography also evolved during these years, supported by commissions from many magazines. His portrait subjects included figures from the worlds of film, fashion, and the arts, and embraced the famous, the fascinating, and the notorious. He develops an individual scenario for each.


Helmut Newton, Prada, Monte Carlo 1984

In 1981, Newton’s Naked and Dressed series appeared in both Italian and French editions of Vogue and then in his own books. Even if in retrospect the shock contrast of these diptychs—models posed identically naked and dressed—defined the zeitgeist, their publication broke a fundamental taboo. His photographs reflected changes in the role of women in society. Throughout his career he knew better than any other photographer how, metaphorically, to place women on a pedestal. In his early fashion photography this was perhaps a matter of conventional gallantry; in his later work it was, rather, a clear acknowledgement of the power and authority of the female.


Helmut Newton, Thierry Mugler Fashion, US Vogue, Monte Carlo 1995

His cross-genre and provocative work over six decades defies categorization. Newton combined commerce with elegance, and voyeurism with style, to create an inimitable mélange that could scarcely be disentangled.

For the duration of the retrospective, June’s Room will host a special exhibition on the work of June Newton aka Alice Springs – in memory of the foundation’s president, who passed away in Monte Carlo in April 2021 and has since been laid to rest next to her husband in Berlin.


Alice Springs, Yves Saint Laurent and Hazel, Paris 1978

To accompany the exhibition HELMUT NEWTON. LEGACY, an extensive catalogue under the same title has been be published by TASCHEN, edited by Matthias Harder: Hardcover, 24 x 34 cm, 424 pages, ISBN 978-3-8365-8458-6

We are also preparing Helmut Newton shows in Sankt Petersburg, Barcelona, Melbourne, and Monaco, to be opened in December 2021, in April and June 2022. “Helmut Newton. Legacy” will travel from Berlin to Antwerp, Vienna, and Milan from Sommer 2002 onward.


Installation shot, „Stephan Erfurt. On the Road“ Foto: Gerhard Kassner

The exhibition “Stephan Erfurt. On the Road” at the project space at the Helmut Newton Foundation has been extended until 16 January 2022.

There are the current Covid state regulations valid to visit the Helmut Newton Foundation. Please book you entrance ticket beforehand at www.smb.museum/tickets

HELMUT NEWTON FOUNDATION
Museum of Photography
Jebensstrasse 2 / 10623 Berlin
info@helmut-newton-foundation.org
www.helmut-newton-foundation.org
Phone +49 30 3186 4825

OPENING HOURS
Tue, Wed, Fri, Sat, Sun, 11 a.m. – 7 p.m.;
Thursday 11 a.m. – 8 p.m., closed on Mondays

ENTRANCE FEE
10 € / 5 € concessions

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