YSL’s Mondrian Dress Headlines Leslie Hindman’s April Couture Auction
BY Michelle Tay | March 16, 2016
(l-r) Mondrian dress by Yves Saint Laurent, "Delphos" gown by Mariano Fortuny, and a newsprint shift dress by Scott
(Courtesy Leslie Hindman Auctioneers)
A series of dresses created by Yves Saint Laurent, inspired by a Piet Mondrian painting he bought, is among the designer’s most iconic creations. On April 7, one of these pieces will headline the Luxury Accessories and Couture auction at Leslie Hindman Auctioneers in Chicago.
Estimated to fetch between $4,000 and $6,000, the shift dress — originally a sleeveless number — comes from the collection of an important client, who had asked the designer to customize it by adding sleeves, making the example, comprising black and white lines, as well as red and yellow accents, all the more unique.
Another piece of historic couture at the sale is a 1920s Mariano Fortuny apricot "Delphos" gown. Named after a Greek classical sculpture, the simple column gown remains prized for its design of vertical pleats that were permanently set in silk by a process that has never, even until now, been successfully duplicated. One example was one of only two garments acquired for the collection of the Museum of Modern Art in 2003; another sold for a world record auction price of $10,000 in December 2001 at Doyle New York. This one, from Estate of Mary Taussig Hall of St. Louis, Missouri, carries a pre-sale estimate of $1,000 to $2,000.
Another piece of historic interest is a black-and-white newspaper dress circa 1967. Oddly enough, it was borne of the age of the space race, when paper companies such as Scott made paper garments for a population that believed it would soon be living on the moon, without the ability to do laundry. Dresses like these were sold at grocery stores, presumably conveniently located near some toilet paper. This example, sporting headlines from the Chicago Sun-Times, has a pre-sale estimate of $100-$200.
Elsewhere in the 510-lot sale are pieces by other important designers such as Balenciaga, Christian Dior, Oscar de la Renta, Andre Courreges, Bill Blass, and Carolina Herrera.
Notable accessories in the sale include an Hermès 34cm black porosus crocodile “Kelly” handbag, circa 1950, with gold hardware and monogrammed initials “SHL” (estimate: $10,000-$12,000), as well as an Hermès gold taurillon clemence 30cm “Birkin” handbag, circa 2006, with palladium hardware (estimate: $6,000-$8,000).
Estimated to fetch between $4,000 and $6,000, the shift dress — originally a sleeveless number — comes from the collection of an important client, who had asked the designer to customize it by adding sleeves, making the example, comprising black and white lines, as well as red and yellow accents, all the more unique.
Another piece of historic interest is a black-and-white newspaper dress circa 1967. Oddly enough, it was borne of the age of the space race, when paper companies such as Scott made paper garments for a population that believed it would soon be living on the moon, without the ability to do laundry. Dresses like these were sold at grocery stores, presumably conveniently located near some toilet paper. This example, sporting headlines from the Chicago Sun-Times, has a pre-sale estimate of $100-$200.
Elsewhere in the 510-lot sale are pieces by other important designers such as Balenciaga, Christian Dior, Oscar de la Renta, Andre Courreges, Bill Blass, and Carolina Herrera.
Notable accessories in the sale include an Hermès 34cm black porosus crocodile “Kelly” handbag, circa 1950, with gold hardware and monogrammed initials “SHL” (estimate: $10,000-$12,000), as well as an Hermès gold taurillon clemence 30cm “Birkin” handbag, circa 2006, with palladium hardware (estimate: $6,000-$8,000).
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