Monday, September 18, 2017

A Slowly Roasted Fish to Serve With Portuguese White Wines




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Slow-roasted fish with mustard and dill. CreditMelina Hammer for The New York Times
Sometimes I take the “What if?” approach to cooking and have had more successes than errors. A few weeks ago I decided to roast some stunningly fresh ocean perch whole. But what if, instead of my usual hot-roasting method, I wrapped the fish tightly in parchment and put it in a slow oven? I was risking $18 worth of fish and the prospect of takeout for dinner. I guessed that the fish, about two pounds, might need an hour and reasoned that succulence might define the end result.
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CreditMelina Hammer for The New York Times
The experiment worked beautifully. It was a technique I had never seen in a cookbook, and when I described it to Eric Ripert, the chef and an owner of Le Bernardin, he said it was new to him. A week later, to serve with the intriguing, sometimes herbaceous, citrusy and spicy Portuguese whites, I had the opportunity for an encore. This time it was a two-pound porgy, and again, after exactly an hour, the bone lifted easily from the perfectly cooked, moist and silken flesh. Lemon, ginger, mustard and herbs brought it into harmony with the wines. 
Recipe: Slow-Roasted Fish With Mustard and Dill
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