Monday, February 1, 2016

Growing Up Latino and Punk in America

Observer

observer music

We’re Not Going Anywhere: Growing Up Latino and Punk in America


Downtown Boys. (Photo: Michelle Threadgould.)
Victoria Ruiz of Downtown Boys. (Photo: Courtesy of Downtown Boys.)

“If you’ve got a hot girl in front of you, I want you to feel her up. Do it, ’cause she can’t get away,” says Fat Mike, lead singer of NOFX.
It’s the year 2000. I’m at the Warped tour in San Francisco. And it’s my first punk show. I am 14 years old.
My whole body stiffens. As soon as the words are spoken, the act is already done. It is as if a pair of rough hands have been summoned up my shirt, and as they claim what they think is rightfully theirs, all I can think is: get your hands off me. But each word is it’s own sentence, because when you’re really fucking scared, you think in words, not in sentences.
It is hot. His hands are sweaty. I try to push his hands away, but when I do he just digs his hands in harder. He thinks my body belongs to him.
Get. Your. Hands. Off. Me. I scream. I can only turn my face; there are so many bodies so close to me I cannot move. He only smiles.
His smile is my trigger. I elbow him in the stomach.
His smile is my trigger. I elbow him in the stomach. And it’s as if I timed it with the circle-pit raging next to me. Only it’s not a real circle-pit because it’s about as punk as a college football party. All I see are white, frat-boy faces. I notice this before he hurls me, single-handedly into the hell pit.
I do not understand how pits work. Someone elbows me in the face. Someone else punches me in the back. I am the only girl in the hell pit and soon, I have fallen. I am where these men think I belong, on the ground, on my knees, begging to get out. But no one will help me. I get kicked, knees to my face. And I realize that if I don’t fight with everything I’ve got: this is it.
I start flailing my arms, punching everything in my way, until I’m standing up. I can almost see a path through the thousands of bodies in front of me.
Get off me. Get off me.
I say it like a mantra, still punching, who knows for how long. Until I am free. I am out of the crowd. I can breathe. My baseball tee is soaked through. My jeans are covered in dirt. I am filthy. I feel filthy.
Fifteen years later, I still can’t listen to a NOFX record.
That doesn’t stop white men from singing Fat Mike’s virtues to me. Fat Mike is a genius. He’s a Bay Area institution. For me, Fat Mike is a traitor, who would sell his female followers down the river for a couple of Valium and feel-good high-fives from the Conquistadors that he calls his fans. Whenever someone praises him, I want to say: fuck you and your complicity. Fuck you for having the privilege to choose not to see what you don’t want to.
Speaking about the politics of performing onstage, singer Victoria Ruiz of Latino and queer punk band Downtown Boys says, “How do we talk to certain people and make certain relationships with people who do need to be in the front and joining us onstage? How do we make all of our decisions, decisions that are about the power dynamic? And that’s what you do in activism and organizing, so I think we pull a lot from people who have tried to change the status quo and have changed it.”Ruiz and her bandmates struggle to confront racism and to make punk shows a more inclusive space.
Ruiz and fellow songwriter Joey DeFrancesco both come from a union-organizing background, and met each other while working together at a hotel in Providence, R.I. They realized the ways in which hotels exploit people of color, and decided to do something about it. But doing something about it applies both to how they view union organizing and how they approach being in a band.
“Unless we’re actually taking power either through our words or what we do before or after the set, who we’re talking to, and the relationship that we’re building because of what we’re doing; unless we’re actually taking power in those moments, then it truly is nothing but these weird identity politics check marks we’re applying to ourselves, and Downtown Boys has always wanted to go beyond identity and into changing the power structure and dynamic,” Ruiz tells the Observer.

los rumores with benny hernandez Were Not Going Anywhere: Growing Up Latino and Punk in America
Los Rumores with Benny Hernandez.

Existing power structures preserve the status quo and erase the work of people of color, even within the punk scene and within punk music in general. Punk has countless subcultures, from straight edge to anarchist, from crust to SHARP, but our artistic movements often mirror the culture that they come from, so the tendency to overlook people of color inherent in America becomes an ugly dynamic of the punk scene as well.
But the emergence of Latino punk and Latino punk festivals challenges that hegemony. Benny Hernandez, lead singer of the Latino punk band Rumores and new-wave band Population, is also one of the founders of Southkore, a former Latino punk collective in Chicago, and is responsible for organizing the first-ever Latino punk festival back in 2006. He did it because at the time, no one would book Latino punk bands at venues in Chicago. After the breakup of the infamous Latino punk band Los Crudos, promoters thought of Latino punk as a novelty. It became disposable, even when the Chicago punk scene was made up of so many Latinos.
“A lot of bands in the neighborhood, and Latino bands, weren’t getting exposure. We weren’t getting asked to play shows. We weren’t part of the white suburban clique of transplants that come into the city and you know, all of a sudden they represent Chicago,” Hernandez says.
“And it was like: wait a minute! I’d go to a show and I’d see these mediocre white bands opening up for a really good band and I thought, ‘Well, if their mediocre white band can open up for them, why can’t our mediocre Latino punk bands also get asked to play?’ So that’s how it came about. We weren’t trying to segregate ourselves or say that we were better than our white counterparts, it was just that hey, if we weren’t going to get asked to play these parties, we were going to book our own parties, book our own shows, and when Latino punk bands come through, we’re going to host them.”
Ideologically, Latino punk festivals are an extension of DIY punk culture. But Latino punk festivals also grew from being left out of that same culture. It’s a form of resistance of having our culture selectively erased.
It was a way of saying we’re here, and we’re not going anywhere.
***
Shortly after the NOFX show, I started going to smaller punk shows and local venues. Shows with familiar faces and people who see me as one of them, not as their property.
On a fateful night in September, Suicidal Tendencies, the biggest Latino punk act from Los Angeles, is headlining. But instead of enjoying it, enjoying my first experience with Latino punk, I’m nervous because the show is sold-out. One thousand bodies are going to show up.
But, this isn’t like the NOFX show. There are brown people. There are cholas. There are mi gente.
The same old white narrative leaves out so many bands that were a part of the same punk scene, a part of the same history. Where are mi gente?
I have never seen fellow Latinos at a punk show before. For months, I’ve been going to underground punk shows in suburban Petaluma, and I have only seen two other people of color. But tonight, they’re everywhere. They come from different classes and from all over the North Bay. It’s like someone sent out a message on Latino sonar, and all of our senses picked up on it.
Tonight, when the first band starts, I see a proper circle-pit. Everyone is thrashing around me, but when someone falls, she is immediately picked up. There is no punching, no hostility, no disrespect.
I stare at the pit. Longingly. But I know better. Sometimes you can want to fit in so badly, but you know all along that you don’t belong.
A boy three inches shorter than me, a couple shades darker than me, with a Mohawk more badass than mine, looks at me and smiles.
“You wanna go in?” He asks.
I do. I nod.
He puts his arm on my back and waits. Waiting for the perfect moment to throw me in. Our heads nod to the rhythm of the beat….one…two…and I’m off. I sail into the pit, and I shove everyone as friend-ily as I can. But then, just like before, I fall.As I fall, my heart does, too. No, it’s just like—I don’t get to finish my sentence. Before I hit the floor, four arms pick me up and I’m standing again. I look up and two guys, fellow Latinos, ask me: Are you O.K.?
They give a fuck about me. We’ve all got skin in the game. I nod, realizing there’s nothing to fear.
“You wanna go back in?” One of them asks.
I nod. But this time, I throw myself back in.
‘We don’t need the mainstream to represent us, and personally, I wouldn’t want it to.’
The Ramones. The Clash. The Sex Pistols. The same old white narrative leaves out so many bands that were a part of the same punk scene and a part of the same history. Where are mi gente? Why aren’t we painted in the same brushstrokes?
Speaking of the erasure of people of color from art, history and in punk, Ruiz tells the Observer, “A great example is Frida [Kahlo]. In the United States I feel like we see her as this sickly, beautiful artist who dated Diego Rivera and painted self-portraits of herself sick and injured. And then you learn about her and she was a communist, she hustled a lot in order to be an artist, she was really respected and loved by a lot of different people. Trotsky had a love affair with her.”
“She’s clearly this powerful, political force that has gotten white-washed. Not even through literally using the word white, but literally by taking away pieces of her identity that hold so much power, and so I think that same thing gets applied to music and to artists.”

Las Sangronas y El Cabron.
Las Sangronas y El Cabron.

But we do not have to be complicit in the stripping away of our collective identity. Latino punk is spinning its own narrative.
Susana Sepulveda is the founder of the Riot Grrrl Carnival and the front-woman of the Latino punk band Las Sangronas y El Cabron. She is from Tujunga, Los Angeles, and is currently getting her Ph.D in Gender and Women’s Studies at the University of Arizona.
“I see punk as fundamentally underground, that’s D.I.Y. And P.O.C [People of Color] punks might not always be fully represented in dominant narratives of punk, but we create our own avenues to document our histories and raise our voices. We don’t need the mainstream to represent us, and personally, I wouldn’t want it to,” she says.
So the rise of Latino Punk and Latino punk festivals is its own challenge to empire; its very existence allows us to be seen.
We are not invisibleWe are culture. We are home.
  

PÚ-aaââr-tÚÚ

36 Hours in Porto, Portugal

Travel | 36 Hours

36 Hours in Porto, Portugal



Porto at sunset, with the cathedral at left and the Dom Luís I bridge at right. Credit Daniel Rodrigues for The New York Times

Stunning 18th- and 19th-century buildings, new indie bars and restaurants and a laid-back vibe, facilitated by the excellent wine — it’s hard to find anything to dislike about Porto. Its walkable center is crammed with cobbled streets and balconies adorned with flowerpots, and the city’s love of food and design is apparent in concept stores and trendy restaurants offering innovative small plates. An ideal day in Porto combines both the grandeur of its history and its very up-to-the-minute cool.
  1. 36 Hours in Porto, Portugal

    Explore street view, find things to do in Porto and sign in to your Google account to save your map.
    Mercado 48
    Mercado 48
    Half living room, half shop, Mercado 48 has the kind of souvenirs that you’ll be proud to show off at home, like the modern cork-and-ceramic teapots and mugs, glazed in a variety of colors, that give a nod to Portugal’s history of cork production.

    Rua da Conceição nº48
    mercado48.pt
    Candelabro
    Candelabro
    It’s smoky and crowded inside Candelabro, but you won’t find relief on the sidewalk, where patrons congregate, bottles of Super Bock beer (1.60 euros) in hand.

    Rua da Conceição
    cafecandelabro.blogspot.com
    Garrafeira AMS10
    Garrafeira AMS
    Garrafeira AMS is a dimly lit wine shop with a few simple tables and a menu of carefully selected Portuguese wines sold by the glass (you can also pull a bottle from the shelves and drink it there).

    Rua da Conceição 38
    Centro Comercial Bombarda
    Centro Comercial Bombarda
    The Centro Comercial Bombarda doesn’t open until noon, but this collection of small shops and restaurants on the gallery-thronged Rua da Bombarda is heaven for shoppers looking for boutiques crammed with goods from homegrown designers.

    Rua de Miguel Bombarda 285, Massarelos
    ccbombarda.blogspot.com
    Brasão Cervejaria11
    Brasão Cervejaria
    Book ahead for lunch at Brasão Cervejaria. The rustic tiled floors, wooden accents and stone walls make it look as if it’s been around forever, but it opened in 2014 and has had the locals lining up for its well-executed Portuguese cuisine ever since. Meals begin with bread and butter flavored with Iberian ham; follow this with the steak tartare and fresh potato chips, or stewed gizzards. Add the whole fried onion served with black garlic mayonnaise.

    Rua Ramalho Ortigão 28
    brasao.pt
    Stash5
    Stash
    If dinner at the Michelin-starred Pedro Lemos restaurant will break the bank, it’s still possible to try the eponymous chef’s food. Along with his wife, Joana Espinheira, Mr. Lemos opened Stash, a sandwich shop, in 2014. Break here for a sandwich of black Iberian pork cooked for 12 hours and slicked with basil mayo, or a barbecued chicken sandwich with homemade pickles or French fries garnished with rosemary, and throw in a glass of wine for 2 euros. Lunch for two, around 18 euros.

    Praça Guilherme Gomes Fernandes 60
    Touriga Vinhos
    Touriga Vinhos de Portugal
    Touriga Vinhos de Portugal offers samples of three ports for five euros and a good selection of Portuguese wines.

    Rua da Fábrica 32
    View website
    Porta'O Lado
    Porta'O Lado
    The casual ambience and plentiful outdoor seating at Porta’O Lado are attractive, but dishes like the mini version of the francesinha, a local sandwich of sausage, steak, cheese, egg and tomato-beer sauce, are the real draw. Pair with wine from the Douro.

    Campo Mártires da Pátria 51
    A Vida
    A Vida Portuguesa
    At A Vida Portuguesa you’ll find colorful, nostalgic Portuguese products, from notebooks to cans of sardines, all with retro-style packaging intact.

    Rua Galeria de Paris
    avidaportuguesa.com
    Trasca
    Trasca
    Trasca offers treats like tiny roasted green chiles with a glass of vinho verde.

    Rua de Trás 16
    Torre de Clérigos8
    Torre de Clérigos
    Unbeatable panoramic views of Porto’s churches and rooftops, its historic port warehouses, the curve of the Douro River and the seagulls sweeping over the waterfront Ribeira neighborhood may be had from the belfry of the Torre de Clérigos (admission 3 euros), 225 steps up a narrow spiral staircase. The rooms off the stairs are home to an exhibit documenting the history of the 18th-century tower’s inhabitants and architects; the adjacent church (included in the admission fee) is also worth a look.

    Rua de São Filipe de Nery
    torredosclerigos.pt
    Feeting Room4
    Feeting Room
    Check out the excellent local design at Feeting Room, a chic concept store selling clothes and accessories, including beautiful leather goods by the Porto brand Maria Maleta.

    Largo dos Lóios 86
    thefeetingroom.com
    São Bento train station1
    São Bento train station
    Most visitors arrive by train, and it’s worth taking the time to examine the São Bento station. Over a century old, the interior of the Beaux-Arts building is decorated with azulejos, the exquisite blue and white tiles for which Portugal is famous.

    Praça Almeida Garrett
    Caldeireiros9
    Caldeireiros
    On Rua dos Caldeireiros, a handful of restaurants have recently appeared, of which Caldeireiros is the standout. Stop here for the alheira de caça, a sausage made with white meats like rabbit and chicken, and served with garlicky spinach. Or try the pork loin sandwich, topped with melted local cheese. Trasca offers treats like tiny roasted green chiles (3.50 euros) with a glass of vinho verde (3.50 euros).

    Rua dos Caldeireiros 139
    facebook.com/caldeireiros
    Confeitaria Serrana
    Confeitaria Serrana
    Confeitaria Serrana, a family-run bakery for over 40 years, serves the city’s best bola de Berlim (1.10 euros, or $1.16 at $1.06 to the euro), a dose of custard sandwiched in a sugar-dusted roll.

    Rua do Loureiro 52
    Porto In a Bottle2
    Porto In a Bottle
    Run by the knowledgeable and friendly Marco Ferreira and Célia Lino, Porto in a Bottle specializes in port from small producers.

    Rua das Flores 263
    facebook.com/PortoInaBottle
    Cremosi
    Cremosi
    The superb local gelato comes in boozy flavors, including port and gin and tonic. Combine the two to make the frozen version of the city’s signature drink, the porto tónico.

    Rua Mouzinho da Silveira 336
    facebook.com/cremosi
    Centro Português de Fotografia7
    Centro Português de Fotografia
    Housed in a former jail, the Centro Português de Fotografia (free) has an unusual setting as well as impressive temporary photography exhibitions. The building dates to the 18th century and held prisoners until the Carnation Revolution in 1974; grills still cover the windows. On the third floor is a hugely impressive collection of cameras from every decade, including some fabulous “espionage” cameras from the ’60s, ’70s and ’80s that are disguised as rolls of sweets, cans of Pepsi and packets of Marlboros.

    Campo Mártires da Pátria
    cpf.pt
    Cantinho do Avillez3
    Cantinho do Avillez
    As one of Portugal’s rock star chefs, José Avillez is a household name. His first Porto venture, Cantinho do Avillez, draws tourists and locals for its creative dishes that combine techniques drawn from molecular gastronomy with the ingredients that define Portuguese cuisine. The lascas de bacalhau is a deconstructed fish-and-chips, the cod flaked and mixed with eggs cooked at low temperature and “exploding” olives that melt in the mouth.

    Rua de Mouzinho da Silveira 166
    joseavillez.pt/en/cantinho-do-avillez-porto
    Armazém13
    Armazém
    One of Porto’s newest multipurpose spaces, Armazém is a (barely) converted warehouse just off the river, west of Ribeira. Housing a cafe-bar, gallery and shops selling everything from vintage furniture to artwork to colorful clothes and handbags by the Portuguese design brand Mexxca, this space has something for everyone. After shopping, grab a drink and head to the deck chairs on the patio in the summer, or the picnic tables in front of the indoor fire in the winter.

    Rua de Miragaia 93
    facebook.com/armazem93
    Sé do Porto6
    Sé do Porto
    A Porto landmark, the twin-towered cathedral, Sé do Porto (free admission), is a gorgeous amalgamation of architectural details from multiple centuries, beginning in the 12th. The result is a historic building that’s Instagram-worthy inside and out. Be sure to explore the hauntingly atmospheric 14th-century Gothic cloister (3 euros), with its exquisite stonework and decorative azulejos. The plaza on which the cathedral sits leads to a perfect view over the sea of picturesque red-roofed houses that slope down to the river.

    Terreiro da Sé
    Vinologia
    Vinologia
    For those who are more interested in sampling than shopping, Vinologia offers a choice of port flights (35 euros) that come with a short introduction to the many varieties.

    Rua de São João 28
    vinologia.pt
    Teleférico de Gaia12
    Teleférico de Gaia
    The bilevel Ponte de Dom Luís I stretches from the Ribeira section of Porto over the River Douro to Vila Nova de Gaia. Stroll over the bridge, with its exquisite views downriver, to the port warehouses that dot the opposite side. Nearly all offer tours, but it’s the views of Porto and the bustling Ribeira waterfront that are the most spectacular feature. Wander along the riverbank, or go for the tour at Sandeman or Taylor’s, then hop on the teleférico (5 euros), which will carry you back to the bridge.

    Calçada da Serra 143
    gaiacablecar.com
    Dados do mapa
    Dados do mapa ©2016 Google
    Dados do mapaDados do mapa ©2016 Google
    Dados do mapa ©2016 Google
    Satélite
    Street Map
  2. Friday

    1. ­­Trains, Tiles and Treats, 3 p.m.

    Most visitors arrive by train, and it’s worth taking the time to examine the São Bento station. Over a century old, the interior of the Beaux-Arts building is decorated with azulejos, the exquisite blue and white tiles for which Portugal is famous. A short walk from the station are two establishments patronized by Porto’s sweets-loving citizens. Confeitaria Serrana, a family-run bakery for over 40 years, serves the city’s best bola de Berlim (1.10 euros, or $1.16 at $1.06 to the euro), a dose of custard sandwiched in a sugar-dusted roll. At nearby Cremosi, the superb local gelato comes in boozy flavors, including port and gin and tonic. Combine the two to make the frozen version of the city’s signature drink, the porto tónico.

    2. ­­­Port Shopping, 4:30 p.m.

    Major port producers have their warehouses in Vila Nova de Gaia, on the south side of the River Douro, but you’ll get a more thorough grounding in the local tipple by delving into the wine shops on the Porto side. Run by the knowledgeable and friendly Marco Ferreira and Célia Lino, Porto in a Bottle specializes in port from small producers. Touriga Vinhos de Portugal is another worthwhile stop, offering samples of three ports for five euros and a good selection of Portuguese wines. For those who are more interested in sampling than shopping, Vinologia offers a choice of port flights (35 euros) that come with a short introduction to the many varieties.

    3. ­­­Modern Portuguese, 8:30 p.m.

    As one of Portugal’s rock star chefs, José Avillez is a household name. His first Porto venture, Cantinho do Avillez, draws tourists and locals for its creative dishes that combine techniques drawn from molecular gastronomy with the ingredients that define Portuguese cuisine. The lascas de bacalhau is a deconstructed fish-and-chips, the cod flaked and mixed with eggs cooked at low temperature and “exploding” olives that melt in the mouth. Dinner for two, 75 euros.
  3. Photo

    Colorful Portuguese wares line the shelves at A Vida Portuguesa. Credit Daniel Rodrigues for The New York Times
    Saturday

    4. ­Shop Local, 11 a.m.

    Grab a coffee and pastry at one of the city’s myriad confeitarias and save room for an early lunch. Check out the excellent local design at Feeting Room, a chic concept store selling clothes and accessories, including beautiful leather goods by the Porto brand Maria Maleta. Up the stairs at A Vida Portuguesa you’ll find colorful, nostalgic Portuguese products, from notebooks to cans of sardines, all with retro-style packaging intact. Half living room, half shop, Mercado 48 has the kind of souvenirs that you’ll be proud to show off at home, like the modern cork-and-ceramic teapots and mugs, glazed in a variety of colors, that give a nod to Portugal’s history of cork production. The Centro Comercial Bombarda doesn’t open until noon, but this collection of small shops and restaurants on the gallery-thronged Rua da Bombarda is heaven for shoppers looking for boutiques crammed with goods from homegrown designers.

    5. ­Champagne Tastes, 1:30 p.m.

    If dinner at the Michelin-starred Pedro Lemos restaurant will break the bank, it’s still possible to try the eponymous chef’s food. Along with his wife, Joana Espinheira, Mr. Lemos opened Stash, a sandwich shop, in 2014. Break here for a sandwich of black Iberian pork cooked for 12 hours and slicked with basil mayo, or a barbecued chicken sandwich with homemade pickles or French fries garnished with rosemary, and throw in a glass of wine for 2 euros. Lunch for two, around 18 euros.

    6. ­Cathedrals and Cloisters, 3 p.m.

    A Porto landmark, the twin-towered cathedral, Sé do Porto (free admission), is a gorgeous amalgamation of architectural details from multiple centuries, beginning in the 12th. The result is a historic building that’s Instagram-worthy inside and out. Be sure to explore the hauntingly atmospheric 14th-century Gothic cloister (3 euros), with its exquisite stonework and decorative azulejos. The plaza on which the cathedral sits leads to a perfect view over the sea of picturesque red-roofed houses that slope down to the river.

    7. ­Photo Break, 4 p.m.

    Housed in a former jail, the Centro Português de Fotografia (free) has an unusual setting as well as impressive temporary photography exhibitions. The building dates to the 18th century and held prisoners until the Carnation Revolution in 1974; grills still cover the windows. On the third floor is a hugely impressive collection of cameras from every decade, including some fabulous “espionage” cameras from the ’60s, ’70s and 80s that are disguised as rolls of sweets, cans of Pepsi and packets of Marlboros.

    8. ­­Clerics’ Tower, 5:30 p.m.

    Unbeatable panoramic views of Porto’s churches and rooftops, its historic port warehouses, the curve of the Douro River and the seagulls sweeping over the waterfront Ribeira neighborhood may be had from the belfry of the Torre de Clérigos (admission 3 euros), 225 steps up a narrow spiral staircase. The rooms off the stairs are home to an exhibit documenting the history of the 18th-century tower’s inhabitants and architects; the adjacent church (included in the admission fee) is also worth a look.
    image for ­Cold Cerveza
    Cozy Trasca offers petiscos (the Portuguese version of tapas). Credit Daniel Rodrigues for The New York Times

    9. ­­­Tapas, Portuguese Style, 7:30 p.m.

    A delightful trend that’s ramped up in Porto is petiscos, the Portuguese version of tapas. Instead of a sit-down dinner, try out a few of the newest places. On Rua dos Caldeireiros, a handful of restaurants have recently appeared, of which Caldeireiros is the standout. Stop here for the alheira de caça, a sausage made with white meats like rabbit and chicken, and served with garlicky spinach. Or try the pork loin sandwich, topped with melted local cheese (wine and small plates for two, around 25 euros). One street over, Trasca offers treats like tiny roasted green chiles (3.50 euros) with a glass of vinho verde (3.50 euros). The casual ambience and plentiful outdoor seating at Porta’O Lado are attractive, but dishes like the mini version of the francesinha, a local sandwich of sausage, steak, cheese, egg and tomato-beer sauce, are the real draw. Pair with wine from the Douro Valley (wine and small plates for two, around 20 euros).

    10. ­­­Late Night Tipple, 11 p.m.

    Porto’s best bars are also its most relaxed. Garrafeira AMS is a dimly lit wine shop with a few simple tables and a menu of carefully selected Portuguese wines sold by the glass (you can also pull a bottle from the shelves and drink it there). Walk down the block to the most effortlessly cool bar in town. It’s smoky and crowded inside Candelabro, but you won’t find relief on the sidewalk, where patrons congregate, bottles of Super Bock beer (1.60 euros) in hand.

  4. The Ponte de Dom Luís I stretches from the Ribeira section of Porto over the River Douro to Vila Nova de Gaia. Credit Daniel Rodrigues for The New York Times
    Sunday

    11. ­­Lunch, Local and Rustic, Noon

    Book ahead for lunch at Brasão Cervejaria. The rustic tiled floors, wooden accents and stone walls make it look as if it’s been around forever, but it opened in 2014 and has had the locals lining up for its well-executed Portuguese cuisine ever since. Meals begin with bread and butter flavored with Iberian ham; follow this with the steak tartare and fresh potato chips, or stewed gizzards. Add the whole fried onion served with black garlic mayonnaise. Lunch for two, around 30 euros.

    12. ­­Over the Water, 1:30 p.m.

    The bilevel Ponte de Dom Luís I stretches from the Ribeira section of Porto over the River Douro to Vila Nova de Gaia. Stroll over the bridge, with its exquisite views downriver, to the port warehouses that dot the opposite side. Nearly all offer tours, but it’s the views of Porto and the bustling Ribeira waterfront that are the most spectacular feature. Wander along the riverbank, or go for the tour at Sandeman or Taylor’s, then hop on the teleférico (5 euros), which will carry you back to the bridge.

    13. ­­Arts and Crafts, 3:30 p.m.

    One of Porto’s newest multipurpose spaces, Armazém is a (barely) converted warehouse just off the river, west of Ribeira. Housing a cafe-bar, gallery and shops selling everything from vintage furniture to artwork to colorful clothes and handbags by the Portuguese design brand Mexxca, this space has something for everyone. After shopping, grab a drink and head to the deck chairs on the patio in the summer, or the picnic tables in front of the indoor fire in the winter.
  1. Lodging
    Less than two years old, the Mercador Guesthouse (Rua Miguel Bombarda 382; mercadorguesthouse-hotel.guestcentric.net; doubles from 78 euros, including breakfast) is on the artsy Rua Bombarda and offers seven comfortable and pleasing rooms (ask for a superior with a balcony). The White Box House (Rua de Santa Catarina 575; the-white-box.pt; doubles from 50 euros, including breakfast) is within walking distance of the city center. Each of its five rooms is different, but all feature wooden floors and a modern aesthetic.